(solo). 10 hours and 35 minutes after I left Gars-bheinn. Heading over towards the infamous and notorious TD Gap we felt rain. just above the Tearlaich Dubh gap. distance then climbing a weakness in the cliffs that run down form the Tooth. a minimum I would also have a rope with me for abseiling so would be Sgurr Mich Choinnich is the next peak and then there is more tricky downclimbing as we approach the twin weird rock towers of An Stac and the Inaccessible Pinnacle. I didn't feel the need to go out to Sgurr Dubh Mor as it is off the Bealach. Had there been gangs of people above us who could have dislodged stuff or who may need moving past or around, we would have roped up. Guidebook and Map. You can hold on the top of the ridge with your hands and then your feet are balancing just on the sloping rock. and energy consuming than I had expected and the mist had come down I had to abseil the final section off the main summit as I could not find the downclimb although I noticed it once I was at the tying on to the rope prior to a more technical section. Strategy, gear, training, navigation and logistics are covered, and 10 classic scrambles are described. lie the most rugged and impressive mountains in the British Isle's. It is also very loose on a different kind of rock to the main ridge, above an enormous exposed drop which suddenly appears below the feet. Naturally the traverse of the Black Cuillin Ridge will incorporate the famous TD gap and the In Pin. The second starts just beyond An Dorus, which is around halfway back to the Sligachan Hotel. The Mountains have given me many of my most memorable days and I'm certain there are far more to come. Change ), You are commenting using your Twitter account. This 2-volume set provides all the information required to complete the main ridge traverse on Skye’s Black Cuillin. as I knew  I still had a misty decent off the SE ridge before the long They create the Cuillin Ridge Traverse-one of the finest and longest Alpine-style rock-climbing routes in Europe with over 4000 metres (13,000 feet) of ascent and descent. Sligachan MRT post it was 2020 and I was shattered and hungry. tracked to the summit of Sgurr Mhic Connich then headed towards the formidable tower of An Stac. glow. will also look for it to be snow free next time! But more importantly we have done more of the ridge than we have ever done before. The Cuillin traverse is a 12km long, technical (up to Very Difficult in the British rating system, or lower 5th class in the US system) ridge traverse with about 3000m of ascent. The obvious times are from May to September and cross your fingers tha… On previous attempts we have tried a number of approaches including hauling the sacks so that we wouldn’t have to climb with them on and I have changed into climbing shoes which then need to be carried round the rest of the route. It had been some years since I have been up this path i'm Since I was soloing I had little choice but to go up the scramble route from On a previous trip Jim had found a minor route that threads down from the back of this mountain avoiding the need for a time-consuming abseil. I cut down and skirted the TD gap towards the Easy Chimney on mountaineering challenge in Scotland. Alisdair's SW ridge. Speaking of complete Cuillin Ridge Traverses, Scott successfully guided brothers Bob & Peter along the ridge. mind I would have to avoid the TD gap and would not be able to do Naismith's route on the Tooth, despite wanting to keep weight down to In an informative article on www.ukclimbing.com local climbing instructor Jon Jones called it … would turn out. But then I do it, I get back to the top, out into the sunshine. thursday morning I was on the ridge in less than 20 hours. The next top was the impressive Basteir Tooth. above the Tooth also retrieving the other 2 Krabs I had left before. was no reason I could not do it without a night out. slabs the route down traversing round the steep buttress at the By the time I reached the We land on a narrow neck of boulders between two great abysses (as always black and shady) from where we start the climb of King’s Chimney. Perched on my belay boulders down in the bottom of the Gap at the foot of the climb, I can peer through a gap in the rock to view the valley 2,000 feet below if I choose. This will include ropes, harnesses, helmets and climbing gear. would have been a lot harder without his support. to do it in one day as I was soloing and seen no real advantage over The next section passed without great event and was the busiest section with multiple parties at various stages. amount or words or photos can do it justice, Along it's 12km length partner to do it with then depending on their fitness and aspirations, two My brother was off and decided he I retrieved it then continued up to Am Basteir via an awkward move The legends it has created are long seated in the history of British Mountaineering and an opportunity appeared for me to give the ‘Royal Route’ a go. wanted to come up as he had never been to Skye before, he was also The Cuillin Ridge contains 11 Munros and includes some 3,000m+ of ascent, climbing, walking, scrambling and abseiling. The Inaccessible Pinnacle is a fine blade of rock perched As I have said above, the slings are key gear here plus maybe one or two nut placements. As it grew heavier our hearts began to sink. As it was snow free and dry it was very pleasant and one of the sections I enjoyed the most as I still had a lot of energy at this point. The Cuillin Ridge appears as the first route in Ken Wilson’s Classic Rock book. This part of the ridge is mainly made up of slabs which slant steeply down on the coruisk side. We are surprised on this beautiful day to find nobody at all. for the coming traverse to the Bealach Mhic Connich, not unjustly it land just right for an attempt. Based on a summer linkup his father Clive Rowland pioneered almost 40yrs ago, we believe this is the first winter completion. The Cuillin Ridge is route number one in Ken Wilson's remarkable book, Classic Rock, but in fact the author of the ridge chapter uses a couple of bypasses to avoid the TD Gap and the Bhasteir Tooth and save the day in less than optimal conditions. route was limited by how hard I was prepared to solo. ( Log Out /  Snow conditions on the ridge, a suitable forecast, The traverse of this ridge is widely considered to be the finest mountaineering challenge in Scotland. A list of the main mountaineering skills was made with a further list of all the main ridge stumbling blocks made. Braeriach - the Coldest corrie in Scotland, Me and Gary at Glen Brittle after the long Drive up, Looking back at Sgurr Mhic Connich and Sgurr Alasdair, Me on the top of Sgurr nan Gillean and the end of the travese. After a failed attempt on the Skye’s Cuillin Ridge traverse in 2019, Caroline returned this year to have another go. To those who have been on it the Cuillin ridge needs no introduction, to those who have not then no amount or words or photos can do it justice, Along it's 12km length lie the most rugged and impressive mountains in the British Isle's. An Stac is one of the most View of the climb from the bottom, TD Gap, Sgurr Thearlich and Sgurr Alasdair seen from Bealach Coir’ a Ghrunnda. Key sections involving graded climbing are the TD gap, Kings Chimney, the Inaccessible Pinnacle … The first volume provides advice about which approach to choose, as well as a list of bivi sites on the Ridge for those who choose the CREST option. carrying more water and bivy kit that would slow me down when there happy to drive which meant I could try and catch some sleep as I hadn't slept since awaking on Thursday morning. The An Stac has more climbing but the big surprise is that one hardly has to down climbing at all, because the ground has risen up to meet you. Had I had a I started from Gars-bheinn at 0725 and Next you need to decide when you are going to do it. To my mind this scrambly approach to the abseil into the TD Gap is one of the many quite severe objective dangers on the route. My I think it's a time that I can Sgurr nan Eag and Gars Bheinn seen from Bealach Coir’ a Ghrunnda. quite often. Cuillin Ridge 2007; Attempt No 4, Gars Bheinn to TD Gap, Cuillin Ridge Panorama from Bealach Coir’ a Ghrunnda, Cuillin Ridge 2007; Attempt 4 TD Gap to Inn Pin. Optional extras include the TD Gap (Hard Severe), King's Chimney (Difficult) and Naismith's Route (Very Difficult). Your instructor will supply all the technical equipment required to undertake this ridge. stone chute and headed up Thearlaich. The scrambling along Sgurr Thearlich is a knife edged, sloping ridge dropping away on both sides done to the valley floor. made good progress through the first easy section towards the TD gap. it didn't hinder me at this stage I was quite apprehensive On Sunday 14th February 2016 myself and Tim Gomersall completed a Winter Cuillin Ridge Traverse from Sgurr nan Gillean in the north to Gars-bheinn in the south. Jim prepares the abseil ropes at the top of the TD Gap, TD Gap. I go down first, and await Jim’s appearance. Leaving the summit of Bruach na Frithe I passed a couple one of which asked if I was doing the traverse These include the TD Gap, King’s Chimney, the In Pinn (up east ridge reverse west ridge) and the Bhasteir Tooth by Naismith’s Route. Feeders and pacers can be used. round of the Coire. Andy approaching the summit of Sgurr Thearlaich with the outlying Munro of Sgurr Dubh Mor immediately behind him. As before, the definition followed was that of previous records and took in the 11 Munro summits, plus the Sgurr Thearlaich and Bidein Druim nan Ramh tops, and the four … window and then arrived on Sgurr na Gillean the final peak at 1800, The sea of cloud is still below us adding to our feeling of privileged to be up here above it. I was growing increasingly tired throughout this section and the last stage of it was the only part of the ridge i had not been on before. I felt no great elation I am very happy with the 10.5 hours it Then there is a bit where Danny has to jump across a gap between two large boulders.This turns out to be located near the Bhasteir Tooth, just beneath Am Basteir. There was a lot of wet snow on I abbed off the Krab I had left to abseil at the end of march was still there! The TD gap requires some technical climbing, most people would probably prefer to use a rope. a long time but have just never had weather, time off or partners From the Bealch Mhic Connich I went To those who have been on it the I struggle on the crux its true, my feet slipping off the polished small hold while trying to find something to pull on. If you like to gamble, enjoy suffering and have good knowledge about the ridge then a one-day traverse is the way. An evening of head scratching later and a plan was devised, where to recreate the Cuillin ridge in the Rosses Donegal. Later on i was thinking although I cannot be sure, I recognized him as the guide Mike Lates who's fantastic Blog I check This is a roped climb. Welcome to my blog. We are glad too when we are soloing – it is so much faster than pitching it. Generally considered Britain's finest mountaineering challenge, a traverse of the Black Cuillin ridge requires crossing over 30 summits, 11 of them Munros. Because I was soloing, my choice of With this in I always wish I could see myself from the ground when I am on stuff like this. days might have been better as it would also have allowed us to do Posted on December 17, 2012 A winter traverse of the Cuillin Ridge on Skye, undoubtedly the greatest mountaineering route in the UK, takes a little more waiting than most other routes. The Vdiff grade is 'traditional' and in many other places a HS/VS grade would not seem overly soft. Exposed scrambling using good movement and rope protection. The first choice you have to make is are you going to do it in one day or as a two-day exped? High up in the Cullins, Danny MacAskill attempts another big trick for the film The Ridge. I put my harness on for It’s not something you have to cross when completing the Cuillin Ridge, but it certainly makes an arresting moment in the film. A lightweight second guidebook gives the scrambler detailed maps, topos and route description for the ridge traverse itself. This time I am determined to do it without hanging on the tat at the crux and so I do, but I have to leave a piece of Jim’s gear which is superbly wedged in. Hopefully you can enjoy my writings and photography as much as I enjoy creating them. A traverse of the Cuillin Ridge #2. took from peak to peak and I did not do it to set a time. good to have someone ahead for the complicated Bidein Druim nan Ramh sleep, not ideal but better than nothing. I was not as fit as i have Its a route where several factors have to combine to enable a successful traverse. west ridge of Gillean was next, choosing to go up one of the chimneys The 12-kilometre route is often completed over two days – doing it in a day is a real test for any mountaineer. my Brother was happy to drive I progressed quickly up The day is one of the very best, in fact it is too hot, the rocks are hot, we are too hot, and there isn’t a cloud in the sky. and will beat although not anytime soon! before saying well done. the exposed crest of An Stac and was soon at the base of the Inpin, ice axe. I certainly didn't remember the impressive bastions of rock that terrace and make the The Inaccessible Pinnacle from Sgurr Alasdair Black Cuillin Ridge Isle of Skye. Cuillin Ridge 2007; Attempt 4 TD Gap to Inn Pin. I decided complex and to me, unknown, Bidein Druim nan Ramh section could be The descent of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich. The leads you to the top of the abseil into the TD Gap itself as always, dark dank and cold. ... From the top of the TD gap some easy scrambling leads to the top of the Great Stone Chute a precipitous gully in between the the high point of the entire Cuillin Sgurr Alasdair and subsidiarity top Sgurr Thearlaich. Change ), You are commenting using your Google account. been over the winter and I also didn't get a proper sleep before hand, things. because of the snow on these At the top, we abseil off, me first, (is it best to go first or last?) to the Inpin resting a little beyond it's top. I too am gasping and grunting with the effort of getting me and my bag to the top. Either start the climb up the ridge, this will lead to the TD gap. bealach was very delicate and treacherous, what in dry conditions ( Log Out /  11 Munros will be taken in on a full traverse as well as climbing up to Severe (S). This traverse, in perfect running conditions, was my fourth this year. View from An Stac to the South of the Cuillin Ridge, View of the Cuillin Ridge from the Inaccessible Pinnacle on the summit of Sgùrr Dearg. ... How was the TD Gap? and arrived in Glen brittle at 0430, I'd manged to get 2-3 hours car Coir ‘ ghrunnda seen from Bealach. main ridge and I really wasn't interested in purist ideas or ticking The reason we solo them is that there is not another soul about. In the past I have been very nervous of the climb up the TD Gap not helped by having watched a young lady struggling and groaning on it for about 20 minutes the first time I saw it. After the main summit of Mhadaidh a Woman passed me who doing a I try twenty, thirty times to tickle it out, then yank, then use the extra leverage of the sling, and it will not move at all. abseiling before starting up. Also, it misses out most of the best rock pitches on the route. After descending off Am Basteir, the The Ridge approaching Sgurr Mich Choinnich, The Inn Pin seen from Sgurr Mich Choinnich, View of the Innn Pin from Sgurr Mich Choinnich, Approach to An Stac and the Inaccessible Pinnacle. pretty sure it had been done up in that time. Timing should be to the nearest second. On average a 2 day traverse will involve 20 hours on the move and a overnight bivouac out on the ridge. Aim for the horizontal gap on the left side and then wiggle up. I passed some guided parties at this ( Log Out /  There are 3 pitched climbs that can be bypassed but a rope is needed for the abseil descent from the In Pinn. some of the harder options. upon reaching the Tooth's summit I got a pleasant surprise. path out to Sligachan to overcome. the sun rose and brought the cuillin of Rum into a new day with a red after Alasdair I descended to the top of the Great We started at Sgurr nan Gillean at 07.40am and touched the cairn on Gars-bheinn at 1.54.17pm. Skye and the Cuillin Ridge. Upon reaching the coire lip I headed up towards Sgurr na eag where I left my pack and walked out towards Gars-Bheinn, the most southerly point on the ridge and the start for most summer attempts. She obviously know where she was going and it was below the Gendarme's old stance. the 'Hardest Munro'. It is 12 noon and we have been going for 6 hours. summits. The TD Gap - a short abseil followed by a slippery VD; though it will … Lota coire. takes 5 minutes took me about 30. This is an ambitious and physically demanding expedition, requiring abseils and technical Grade VD climbing. I left my Bother to sleep Skye Trail - Aimed at more adventurous walkers, this 80-mile route takes in part of the Trotternish Ridge and passes benrath the Cuillin. To have more chance of success and to enjoy the experience then a two-day exped is recommended. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator. Our route took in all 11 Munro summits, Bidein Druim nan Ramh, and included the TD gap. feet did not look too healthy either! There was quite a lot of snow about and although The route involves descending from the main ridge for some able to do the Inpin and this also meant any difficulties on the Trip Description. Here, she tells the story of taking on the challenge of this famous mountaineering adventure. Once I watched a couple doing this from a distance and it looked as if they were certainly going to die. Change ), You are commenting using your Facebook account. Sgurr nan Eag and Gars Bheinn seen from Bealach Coir’ a Ghrunnda. The TD Gap and Naismith's Route are now graded Severe. We solo both these climbs, Jim glorying in the tremendous exposure and airiness, I preferring to concentrate on the holds on the few inches of rock before the great sheer drops on either side. The TD Gap is the obvious cleft bisecting the ridge below and left of the climbers. impressive features on the Ridge, it is perhaps under appreciated due tackled should I be unable to downclimb. On Saturday 12 th October 2013 I had one of the most memorable runs of my life to give a new Cuillin Ridge Traverse record of 2hrs 59mins 22 seconds. Looking back along to the South end of the Ridge. Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. The SMC guidebook "Skye Scrambles" has a good description of all the individual sections as well as good diagrams. Taking the Cuillin Ridge Light approach, she managed to complete the route in a day. on the northern tops. coire far more high and secluded than it's more popular neighbor. again as he had slept a lot of the day so a big thanks to him as it All this while perched awkwardly on the hardest part of the climb. in the car and I headed out on the path towards Coir a'Ghrunnda as The Traverse of the Cuillin Ridge of Skye is the finest mountaineering adventure in the British Isles. Approaching Sgurr Thearlich around 8.30 am. The climb out of the TD Gap is the hardest pitch on a direct traverse, but it's readily avoidable and celebrate with a brief sandwich stop. Walking up … Last winter Will Rowland pulled off an incredible traverse of the Black and Red Cuillin in a two day journey starting and finishing at Sligachan. inelegant frogging up the TD gap during our Cuillin Ridge Traverse, July 2011 stage, heading for Mhic Connich. But this time I am in my ‘ridge’ shoes and with my pack on, containing, as well as everything else, four litres – ONE GALLON – of water. Now it is us and its fine. upon a slab and it is extremely exposed. Next up the TD Gap but not before a truly scary scramble on the more chossy of the rocks we have to move on. The Inn Pin is like a spiky dinosaur’s back. round Collie's ledge which was easy despite having snow on it. We left at about 2330 Of course the price to pay for this is that it is extremely exposed and awkward Grade 3 scrambling downwards. Change ). The ridge can be completed in one or two days, either as TRIAD (the ridge in a day) or CREST (Cuillin Ridge Expedition Style Traverse). I have been Mountaineering in some sense for over 20 years and am as keen now as I ever have been. Rain is OK on certain sections in the Cuillin but can make some sections quite treacherous and slow. I’m not a man for Bucket Lists, but the traverse of the Cuillin Ridge has been on my mind for a long time. Finishing on Garsbheinn cannot be nearly as satisfying as finishing on the superb summit of Sgurr nan Gillean, and the southern end of the ridge (S of the TD gap will be a big anticlimax, and a very long, tiring finish, with the horrendous long tramp back to Glen Brittle to follow.) Before the summit I threaded the Note: This is different from the route you might take if you are “simply” summiting all 11 Cuillin … Next up the TD Gap but not before a truly scary scramble on the more chossy of the rocks we have to move on. The Cuillin Ridge Traverse - Britain’s finest mountaineering challenge Twenty-two peaks lie in a continuous chain stretching over twelve kilometres. I back short side and continued towards Banachdich. In 12.5km there is 3000m of ascent and descent taking in in over ten Munros. The first begins just before the tricky climb out of the TD Gap, traverses Coire Lagan and culminates with an abseil from the Inaccessible Pinnacle. I have been meaning to do the ridge for The TD gap is the hardest bit of climbing although Naismith's route is much more exposed. this section which made it problematic and I was very glad to have brought an The next section up to Bruch na Frithe was a lot more time Looking back along to the South end of the Ridge. Originally published 10/5/2011. The traverse of this ridge is widely considered to be the finest Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. Watch on YouTube. This time after seeing a forecast on Cuillin ridge needs no introduction, to those who have not then no If unsure about the TD gap veer to the left and follow the bottom of the cliffs up the scree on your right hand side until the scree slope almost stops. ( Log Out /  We leave the bags on the steep scree while we scramble to the top of Sgurr Alasdair, the highest peak on the ridge. Jim swarms up the climb and I start off. In the background is another Munro, Bla Bheinn. Above, the slings are key gear here plus maybe one or two nut placements peaks in. The valley floor to td gap cuillin ridge feeling of privileged to be the finest mountaineering challenge in Scotland 's which. Route takes in part of the TD Gap is like a spiky dinosaur ’ s appearance back! Andy approaching the summit of Mhadaidh a Woman passed me who doing a round of the abseil into the Gap... Collie 's ledge which was easy despite having snow on it the technical equipment required to undertake this ridge widely. Alasdair I descended to the top of the ridge in less than 20 hours that is. Ramh, and 10 Classic Scrambles are described that there is not another soul about exposed! And photography as much as I have said above, the highest peak on the hardest bit climbing... 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