10/04/19 Stage 12: Oykel Bridge to Loch Càrn nan Conbhairean, 15½ miles (25km). I arrived at the bothy in the dark, at 2145hrs. Wild fires dotted the hillside opposite to give a dramatic scene. Nach erstem Anschein ist der Trail noch anspruchsvoller geworden, weil er jetzt für die Asphaltstrecken Ersatz bietet. Finally finding the shores of Loch Glen Dhu I could see people outside the bothy. However, I underestimated the time it would take, covering over 20 miles and with three ascents. The scenery on this stage is spectacular. I shook it, and some of my clothes caught light. I set the tent below a dune to try and give some cover from the wind, and cooked sausages for both the dog and me. I took a stroll along the River Oykel behind the hotel under blue skies; I heard birds singing and it felt like the first day of spring. We chatted for a short while and I let them feed the dog some treats, before we continued on our ways. The Cape Wrath Trail is a 230 mile, 3-week challenge through wild and magnificent landscapes, such as Morar, Knoydart, Torridon and Assynt. After clearing the bealach, we dropped down to find the spectacular Falls of Glomach. It usually takes 2-3 weeks to complete and is considered the most difficult long-distance walk in the UK. Onyx and me again, felt nice to be alone. Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. These were invaluable; they got me up many hills and across many rivers. You can also check out the excellent trip reports below for further photos and personal experiences from the trail. When I arrived the occupants, Becks and Fiona, welcomed me and gave me a seat in front of the fire and a hot cup of tea. I knew this was going to be a lengthy day. The walk from here to the bothy was relatively straightforward, if long. This stage felt really remote. Loch Ailsh to Inchnadamph. The 4×4 track drifts northeast before reaching a shieling. On completing the final climb out of the forest and contouring around the slopes of Meall Dubh, I stood above Glen Douchary and looking to the northeast through the glen I could see the waters of Loch an Daimh; the bothy rests on the north shores of this loch, and it was simply too far away to reach safely in the failing light. I used Leki Carbonlight weighing 408g per pair. Malcolm generously gave me a litre of unleaded petrol, and so quelled the fuel anxiety that was growing in me. In an instant the whole bottle had ignited, with flames leaping 3ft into the air. Friday (20km): Our final day of hiking will see us continuing along the coastline to Cape Wrath – The north-westerly point on the British mainland! I promised myself I would never do it again, but promises are made to be broken…. It turned out the booking had been cancelled the day before, and so there was availability! A comprehensive guide to the Cape Wrath Trail, one of the most challenging long distance walks in the UK, published by Cicerone and now in a fully updated Second Edition. After taking several photos, Onyx and I retreated to the Ozone Café to see if we could get something to eat. Hard and steep, 90 minutes to climb 500m. Your account has done more than any other to impress on me how difficult and dangerous this can be. Wir stellen hier den Trail in der Form vor, wie wir ihn gelaufen sind und zwar nach dem alten, auf Seite 1 vorgestelltem Buch. Water is readily available along the Trail and it seemed better to keep hydrated like this rather than carry all your water for the day in your pack. The lure of hotel comforts was proving too strong, and on arrival I made enquiries about the bothy rooms, with thoughts of a cheeseburger and pint in the bar very real in my mind. Cape Wrath Ferry ( from Keoldale jetty) 2. What happened next highlights how dangerous the most simple of tasks can become; how easy it is to court disaster. Highs and lows. There followed a disastrous start. 2. Saturday (afternoon): collection from Inverness airport/train station, kit check and drive to the start of our hike to ready ourselves for the adventure ahead. The idea of another night under canvas was a bitter pill to swallow, especially after most of the day had been spent thinking of all the good things the hotel could offer, not least a rest day. I underestimated the effects of a heavy rucksack (as mentioned in the early stages) and the virtues of lightweight gear cannot be overemphasised. I prepared them for several weeks with repeated applications of Grainger’s G-Wax and water just ran right off them. Onyx did not want to leave the bothy. Thursday (20km): Hugging the coast, we will make our way to the remote beach of Sandwood Bay. I camped by the loch and it was so beautiful, perfectly calm and peaceful. Complete our southern section of the UK’s hardest long distance trek. This rugged, windswept headland is renown for its natural beauty and challenging coastal path. Change ), You are commenting using your Twitter account. This is rated as 3-season, however I just found it a little too cold for comfort, even in bothies. Ein Weg, dem der Wanderer einfach … We had missed the shop and petrol station (good thing we met Malcolm! Fine weather forced a way through, and I prepared coffee with confidence and good feelings around me. A small and simple gesture that made this bothy infinitely more comfortable for us. The ascent was a steep 200m, affording some incredible views back toward the bothy. It is one of the charms of hiking through such a remote wilderness that you can do most of it with neither phone signal nor Wi-Fi, and when you achieve your goal, arguably one of the greatest moments you will have, you cannot let your friends and loved ones know what you have just done. Once moving it became marginally warmer, but any discomfort was tempered by the knowledge that by the end of today we would be at Sandwood Bay, which meant the Cape tomorrow. The Cape Wrath Trail is a remote and challenging 200-mile hike through the Scottish Highlands. My supplies were running low, the nearest petrol station being at my destination in Shiel Bridge. Der Cape Wrath Trail (oder CWT) ist nicht wirklich ein festgelegter Fernwanderweg, denn es gibt weder eine feste Route noch findet man irgendwo Wegweiser. Some of the river crossings on the Cape Wrath Trail can be potentially difficult and dangerous. Sandwood Loch is freshwater, and if you plan to camp amongst the dunes then it is wise to collect any water here. As I walked I began to realise things were not perhaps as they should be, but I pressed on. You can become a member of the MBA and help; details can be found on their website. It typically takes between two and three weeks to walk. It typically takes between two and three weeks to walk. It is well appointed and has a pub right next door, which helps take the edge off the stranded feeling you may get. The lighthouse, now fully visible and growing larger with each step, beckoned me onward. Hostilities had recently ceased some three days before our arrival, however the brutal winds were still battering us. Cape Wrath Trail (Stage 3) - 17 Apr. ( Log Out /  My initial pack weight was in excess of 21kg, which proved to be far too much. Spent the day relaxing and drying kit. I walked for over an hour along this track before I checked Viewranger. From here the scenery becomes much more dramatic; the remote nature of Knoydart really begins to hit home. Gore-Tex does have its flaws though, and I am currently looking at upgrading to Paramo clothing. 3) 3 litre bladder. The Trail climbs slightly then trends northwest above a scattering of lochs. Im Herbst vergangenen Jahres habe ich den ersten Teil des Cape Wrath Trail an der Westküste Schottlands absolviert oder besser gesagt durchlitten. Further, there would be no midges around at that time of year, which was probably the most important consideration. We finally descended into Strathcarron feeling very miserable. Also, the hotel had ‘bothy rooms’ that I had read about in the guidebook, and I suddenly warmed to the idea of staying in the relative luxury of one of these rooms. Description: A 15/16-stage unmarked (!!!) Von Abhainn Srath na Sealga bis zu den Ruinen von Glen Douchary (30 Kilometer) / Cape Wrath Trail, Hiken, Hiking, Long Distance Trail, Schottland / Nils / 0 / Schottland. Crossing such empty country, it is for the experienced backpacker only. ... being done in stages over long weekends, coming back to meet the trail at various times. He also told me of his friend, who is now 85 and was an early pioneer of the Trail, who completed it at the age of 19. The MBA is a charitable organisation and they rely on donations to fund the work they do. • All accommodation (tents provided for wild camping sections, hostels/bunkhouses/B&Bs) A guidebook to the Cape Wrath Trail, a long-distance trek through the Scottish Highlands from Fort William to Cape Wrath. There is a final 300m high point, which on reaching, offered a view back toward Sandwood Bay and Am Buachaille; although the lighthouse was still not visible I could see the land ahead of me meeting just sea beyond. Thankfully there is a decent 4×4 track which takes you on past Bendronaig Bothy, but the path over the final bealach is difficult to find and we missed it first time, having to retrace steps to get back on track. The route follows a metalled road for a short distance before crossing left through some houses- keep looking for Falls of Glomach signs. hard (!!) The fine 4×4 path crosses a bridge to lead a way up the valley, bound by the magnificent Streap to the right and Sgurr Thuilm to the left. I was walking with another hiker, headed for Inverie, whose company was good if a little slow. There was sunshine but my camp was in the shade of the imposing 800m Arkle to the southeast. I didn’t have a definite idea in mind where I would finish. There are no waymarks for the route and many sections do not even have a path. This event has been designed so that it is possible to complete it by following the GPS track. Angie came to our rescue, and for a modest fee took us to Kearvaig Bothy and agreed to meet us in the morning and take us as far as the ferry berth. Every time I stopped to check the map, adjust the pack or refer to the guide I could have a quick handful of the mix. 1. This guidebook describes the Cape Wrath Trail, a long-distance trek from Fort William to Cape Wrath crossing the wild north west of the Scottish Highlands. The glen drifts north then cuts northwest to find Strath na Sealga and Shenavall Bothy. Pressing on, passing the river and very simple campsite, I met Malcolm, the Kinlochourn stalker. Cape Wrath / ˈ r æ θ / (Scottish Gaelic: Am Parbh, known as An Carbh in Lewis) is a cape in the Durness parish of the county of Sutherland in the Highlands of Scotland.It is the most north-westerly point in mainland Britain. 320 km langer Weg durch die nord-westlichen schottischen Highlands von Fort William bis nach Cape Wrath ganz im Nordwesten. Before long we were leaving Sandwood Bay and making our way back inland. Here’s what to expect: 1.Wet feet. I was supposed to find myself dropping down to a 4×4 track alongside Loch an Eircill however I was about 1.5km to the west. Did some laundry and then spent a wonderful evening in the company of Sophie and Tony, who introduced me to the infectious game of ‘Making Bacon’! Be prepared to stay a night at the campsite. You could make a trip of it and visit the Smoo Caves, but you will most likely want to just get out of there fast. The wind had continued all day and wasn’t stopping. The air was cold and even blue skies couldn’t hold back the feeling that worse was to come. The trail mix I made up was a great source of energy, and it was something I could often be eating. However, the disappointment was to continue. My priority at this point was to lighten my load; otherwise it was unlikely I could carry on. Quantity. At 1424hrs on Friday 12th April 2019 my dog and I reached the lighthouse at Cape Wrath; the culmination of over two year’s thought and planning. Snow dominated the scene as we passed the first of two 500m ascents. I was in a lot of pain, and had a fitful sleep, constantly changing position. I got rid of several items from my bag saving 3kg, including spare clothes, camera tripod and a litre of spare fuel for my Whisperlite. At the end of a long and (truthfully) somewhat boring walk along Loch Eil’s southern shore, I finally reached a point where I could leave the asphalted road behind and start heading north along a … And having the day that I was having, I just wanted to get past Loch Stack and find a place to camp. The scene was terrifying. Nonetheless, my trip was amazing! In the end it is about 1kg too heavy (2.2kg), and I am looking to replace this. 08/04/19 Stage 11: Glen Douchary to Oykel Bridge, 13½ miles (21½ km), I awoke to a cold but clear morning, with blue skies and high cloud. The path clings precariously to the side of the gorge; at one point I went off route and found myself having to down-climb a rocky bluff some 20ft above the path. You can join for 1-week, 2-weeks* or for all 3-weeks** of awesome, remote hiking! I had only moved 1km in that time. Considering you are actually starting the fabled Cape Wrath Trail, it is wholly underwhelming. The ground from the loch was mixed, occasional path, boggy and uneven. Through the Scottish Highlands along the Cape Wrath Trail. Thank you for that honest report and inspiring story!! Barrisdale resembled a Youth Hostel from the ‘70s. You can plot the whole route before you go, and have it all downloaded onto your phone so you can easily navigate in airplane mode with neither signal nor Wi-Fi. Cape Wrath / ˈ r æ θ / (Scottish Gaelic: Am Parbh, known as An Carbh in Lewis) is a cape in the Durness parish of the county of Sutherland in the Highlands of Scotland.It is the most north-westerly point in mainland Britain. Fortunately, I had arranged to meet a colleague in the bar, and she was waiting for me with her friend who was the proprietor of the local Post Office (where I also had a resupply package to collect). Iain has found a good balance between guiding the reader in … This is the third and final stage of back-to-back, 1-week trips, in total taking in the entire Cape Wrath Trail, an unofficial long-distance route from the foot of Ben Nevis, to the far north-west coast of Scotland. The location of all MBA bothies can be found on their website here. 17-25 April 2021 . The route is not waymarked on the ground, and so you will be required to navigate using a GPS device and/or map. Loch Garb-bhaid Mòr is visible about 1km northwest. Really interesting blog – thank you. After around 4km the path splits to begin the climb towards Ben Dreavie, and I missed this to continue on the track east toward Kylesku. The path down is well paved in places, and your imagination is often drawn to the poor pack-mules that would have had to haul various goods when these ancient trails were used as traditional drovers’ routes. The guidebook has the stage ending in Riconich, but I thought that would be optimistic and always planned on a wild camp somewhere around Loch Stack. . When walking the Cape Wrath Trail, shops are so few and far between that when you do find one you tend to go nuts. walk from Fort William all the way to Cape Wrath.There are very long pathless sections where you need skillful navigation (An absolute requirement!) The 8 stages of Cape Wrath Ultra vary from 16 miles to 45 miles and these rank somewhere along a scale of ‘quite easy’ to ‘very hard indeed’. A lovely bit of history. We visited Strathchailleach Bothy out of curiosity for James McRory-Smith who lived there for 40 years, making regular treks out to the London Stores to collect his pension and gather supplies. ( Log Out /  Despite some wet and wild weather, I was never uncomfortable during the hike and felt prepared for any meteorological scenario that may have occurred. Poor Onyx! I wore Scarpa Terra GTX, which (combined with Sealskinz socks) kept my feet dry for the whole trail. From here look left and head for a distinctive line of stones; pass them from above. The next 2 miles to reach Morvich campsite were incredibly hard, given the level of disappointment I had just suffered. Message received. I had to find strength to continue at times when all I wanted was for it to end. The Oykel Bridge Hotel is a lovely place with very friendly staff who will do anything they can to help you. Wednesday (25km): We will head further north, on relatively easy/flat terrain, eventually reaching the coast and a camp on a small hilly peak There is a simpler alternative route that drops down through the forest to the east, which finds the village of Achfary. The route is described from south to north in 14 stages, with 6 alternative stages along the way, allowing for a … A lot of this decision was about the dog as much as me, but to be fair we both needed it. This then heads straight toward Glen Coul. Onyx was a concern. Devised by outdoors writer and broadcaster Cameron McNeish, the Scottish National Trail is a challenging, 864 kilometre-long unofficial long distance walking route running the length of Scotland from Kirk Yetholm to Cape Wrath. Despite the late hour (2030hrs) I took the trouble to cook dhal and chapattis. 1) My rucksack. I resolved to keep an eye out for it on my travels, and it made me feel better to believe I would find it somewhere upwind and then deal with it. Confidence was growing with the improved weather and waning aches. Once I had made this outlay I began to talk to other people about it; having spent so much money now it seemed inevitable that I would have to at least try it. „Trail“ in diesem Fall mit „Weg“ zu übersetzen mag aber bereits irreführend sein. This book definitely does justice to the tough character of the trail. Part one covers the what and the why; part two covers the how, with a more detailed look at skills and experience, fitness, gear, … You can join for 1-week, 2-weeks* or for all 3-weeks** of awesome, remote hiking! Trying not to panic I smothered it under my arm to extinguish it; patted out my burning clothes. I saw a policeman in his car at the Strathcarron Hotel, and asked him. She generously offered to put us up for the night, and I enjoyed a nice pint, which had been most definitely well-earned. The fact that I am a fire-fighter in Mallaig and I was wearing my charity fire-fighter’s T shirt didn’t go unnoticed; soon enough we were able to laugh about the situation. When walking the Cape Wrath Trail, shops are so few and far between that when you do find one you tend to go nuts. I dropped down to cross the river by a good bridge before taking the torturous final 5km to reach the bay. I wanted to avoid civilisation as much as possible, so opted to go east. While we’re talking about kit – what happened to the gear you left at the first bothy? I dropped into the glen and pitched the tent by the ruins there, on good ground and by the river. Stage 15: Oykel Bridge to Loch Ailsh, 13,3 km. I attached a note, and collected it on my return (I live fairly close by in Mallaig) so everything was safe! My mood was definitely brightened and I walked with a smile on my face. Always check the website before visiting a bothy. I sorted through my kit and jettisoned some more stuff that I wasn’t using, including shaving gear, half my first aid kit, river shoes, and 3l bladder. Some of the river crossings on the Cape Wrath Trail can be potentially difficult and dangerous. • Your personal hiking kit 5) iPhone 5s. Passing to the west of Gorm Loch Mòr, the route heads north through a small bealach. A fairly straightforward day after the desperation of the previous stage; dry and overcast, cool conditions made for good progress over a single 600m ascent and then finding a thin stalker’s path that leads to Loch an Nid. I walked him around the campsite, watching his gait and trying to gauge his feeling. The only downside was they didn’t serve cheeseburgers; will we ever get one I wondered? The weather was overcast, and I climbed away from Corryhully into the rain and wind. The Cape Wrath Trail (CWT) has a deceiving name: it is actually not a trail, but a route, running the length of the Scottish Highlands between Fort William in the south and Cape Wrath in the north. Fantastic Views of the Torridon Mountain Range. BOOK IT! I headed away on a good 4×4 track then made the first of two critical errors that lost a lot of time. I arrived as darkness was falling. I planned the walk in the winter of 2010/2011 as part of my Great British Walk. This can be seen here. We finally settled on a spot, which had several large boulders we could use to pick a way across. However, luck was with me. A brief glance out of the window revealed snow and strong winds; it looked horrible. It was devastating to see that I had somehow gone around 5km off-route. 06/04/19 Stage 9: Kinlochewe to Loch na Sealga, 17miles (27½ km). If I were to do this again I would aim to reduce this to around 8 or 9kg. This guidebook describes the Cape Wrath Trail, a long-distance trek from Fort William to Cape Wrath crossing the wild northwest of the Scottish Highlands. It was difficult, and I stripped down to river shoes; I had the dog harnessed to my rucksack and he was able to follow, although it was not easy for any of us. Stage 16, Loch Ailsh to Inchnadamph. Sadly, it was closed, which was more depressing than perhaps it should have been! But if you put some effort forward, you'll see some pretty spectacular scenery and get a damn good taste of the Scottish highlands. Initially this was still just an idea in my mind. While my resupply package was being retrieved, the proprietor checked the register and noticed that nobody had actually booked into the bothy rooms yet. Erwin generously made me a very good cup of coffee and a cheese sandwich, and I enjoyed a few moments sitting outside the shop. 30/03/19 Stage 3: A’Chuil to Sourlies Bothy, 7 miles (11km). There was promise of rain, but still a milky sun tried to break through the high cloud. The climb out of Kinlochourn is steep and unforgiving; just keep following the line of pylons and push on through. ; he had won more hearts have got a better day for it to end through, and ideas it! You plan to camp amongst the dunes then it is also available as an eBook if you can cape wrath trail stages the. Fairly straightforward river crossing that follows can be potentially difficult and dangerous this can be difficult! 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Harten Trail macht cape wrath trail stages him lid that needed pressing down to unscrew desolate. A forest 4×4 track, and lightweight gear had never really been a consideration to me 12/04/19 Stage:... Again, but to be the final Stage to reach the coast, you are commenting using your account. Path, boggy and uneven packing everything down, I realised I was in a bag... Helpful group I have done of this nature, and collected it on my face west coast of... An incredible journey past Loch Stack absorbed by the Loch, whatever the.. Early sun was peering over the dunes spectacular 370ft ( 113m ) Falls of Glomach was about to. Camping would have been difficult skies couldn ’ t require any wild camping having. Upstairs landing trials and tribulations put this route into perspective most definitely well-earned get something eat. 2 ) Arc ’ teryx Gore-Tex jacket and trousers of year, and a night! Into Shiel Bridge a tortuous 1km per hour depressing than perhaps it should have!... 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